We had a nice long breakfast at our place overlooking the Gulf
of Messenia. I'm getting better at my Greek. There are a LOT
of Greek loan words in English which helps. One that isn't is
"Limani" (port), "Limnio" (lagoon), and what we saw today,
"Polilimnio" (several waterfalls). This root always seems to
relate to water, in addition to the more familiar water root
"pot-" which one sees in English words like potable (drinkable),
Mesopotamia (land betweeen the waters), and hippopotamus
(water horse). Here I see it in things like the "Frouto Poto"
(fruit drink) made from pomogranate that we had for breakfast.
Our goal for the day was originally to do an olive oil tasting
and tour, but that was unfortunately unavailable. Off-season
here a lot of things really shut down. Apparently Greece
doesn't have European snowbirds the same way Florida does in
America. We settled for seeing the beach at Voidokilia per the
recommendation of the guy who owns our AirBnB. He also provided
olive oil from his personal farm which we've enjoyed greatly.
Well, we didn't make it to Voidokilia straight out, because we
past a sign on 82 that said Polilimnio - Waterfalls. I have a
serious weakness for waterfalls that my children also share.
We planned a nice little hike, but these where unlike any
waterfalls we'd seen before. The mountains to the east of
Kalamata are also limestone. The water is perfectly clear and
has a lot of dissolved calcium carbonate - so much that as the
water deposits rock as it flows over the falls. They looked
like the hot springs of Yellowstone, but they were freezing
cold. I swam in the largest pool and it was colder than the
North Sea!
Pictures
After our adventures in the limestone canyon we headed down
the mountain toward the beach and stopped in Gialova for lunch.
It's a cute little town with a beach. We parked on the quay
and ate at a little restaurant called Elia. It was easy to
pick out because it was packed at 2 PM whereas most other
restaurants along the beach were empty. Some of the best Greek
food we've had so far, from the baked sfela cheese to the
rabbit with prunes to the Taygetus mountain trout to the local
olives to the kebab and souvlaki. We've also discovered that
the Hellenes keep their good wine for themselves.
Pictures
After lunch we completed our drive through olive groves to the
beach at Voidokilia. There is like a giant rock wall along the
coast. The Venetians built a castle above the Novorino dunes,
but tomorrow Dean Karnazes is having a triathalon there. We
climbed the rocks (pumice - ouch!) and swam in the incredibly
salty water of the Ionian Sea. Incredibly it seems saltier
than the Aegean. Cara & I didn't even need to tread water
to stay afloat. We didn't manage to climb to the castle, but
we did find a Mycenean tomb that was over 3000 years old.
Pictures
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