Before air conditioning, Europeans mostly migrated to places
with reasonable summer temperatures. Mostly. In Toledo this
week I experienced 40 degree temperatures in the mornings and
comfortable afternoons that by the end of the dry week were in
the low 80's. Last night I took my newest team member at
PopResearch out to experience a game played by the historic
Toledo Mud Hens. Established in 1896 (before air conditioning),
they are a team from an era of waxing growth in the Great
Lakes region of America long before the slow decline of the
Rust Belt.
We dined before the game at Tony Packo's - a Hungarian restaurant
founded in the 30's and now know for the M.O.A.D., the mother
of all dogs. This is a fully loaded wurst as long as my forearm
and nearly as thick. Okay, that's probably a bit of an exaggeration,
but it's fricken' huge! At Packo's they'll wish you
"Egeszsedre!" as you down your beer. I'll have to remember that
if I ever visit Hungry.
The Mud Hens were playing the Braves, who apparently now have
a triple A team in Gwinnett County rather than Richmond, VA.
Who knew? It's a bit too obvious that I haven't followed
baseball much since the 90's. Fortunately Ridley, who accompanied
me that evening, was just as unknowledgeable or played it off
well. One never knows.
The game was a throwback to earlier years, with a home run
bouncing off a brick wall and being ruled a ground rule double,
plenty of scoring by both teams, and plenty of errors as well.
In the end, the Braves I rooted for were much like the Atlanta
Braves of the 80's - playing marginally better ball, but
abandoning men on pace in the face of double play after double
play by the Mud Hens. They ended up losing with 5 runs to the
Mud Hens 12.
Still, an enjoyable evening! Taking a pokewalk afterward we
passed gutted skyscraper after gutted skyscraper marveling at
this empty skeleton of a once great city at the heart of the
Rust Belt. What is it about this place that makes people
leave Toledo while they are flocking in droves to places like
Nashville and Seattle?
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