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                  We had a nice long breakfast at our place overlooking the Gulf
                  of Messenia. I'm getting better at my Greek. There are a LOT
                  of Greek loan words in English which helps. One that isn't is
                  "Limani" (port), "Limnio" (lagoon), and what we saw today,
                  "Polilimnio" (several waterfalls). This root always seems to
                  relate to water, in addition to the more familiar water root
                  "pot-" which one sees in English words like potable (drinkable),
                  Mesopotamia (land betweeen the waters), and hippopotamus
                  (water horse). Here I see it in things like the "Frouto Poto"
                  (fruit drink) made from pomogranate that we had for breakfast.
                 
                
                  Our goal for the day was originally to do an olive oil tasting
                  and tour, but that was unfortunately unavailable. Off-season
                  here a lot of things really shut down. Apparently Greece
                  doesn't have European snowbirds the same way Florida does in
                  America. We settled for seeing the beach at Voidokilia per the
                  recommendation of the guy who owns our AirBnB. He also provided
                  olive oil from his personal farm which we've enjoyed greatly.
                 
                
                  Well, we didn't make it to Voidokilia straight out, because we
                  past a sign on 82 that said Polilimnio - Waterfalls. I have a
                  serious weakness for waterfalls that my children also share.
                  We planned a nice little hike, but these where unlike any
                  waterfalls we'd seen before. The mountains to the east of
                  Kalamata are also limestone. The water is perfectly clear and
                  has a lot of dissolved calcium carbonate - so much that as the
                  water deposits rock as it flows over the falls. They looked
                  like the hot springs of Yellowstone, but they were freezing
                  cold. I swam in the largest pool and it was colder than the
                  North Sea!
                 
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                  After our adventures in the limestone canyon we headed down
                  the mountain toward the beach and stopped in Gialova for lunch.
                  It's a cute little town with a beach. We parked on the quay
                  and ate at a little restaurant called Elia. It was easy to
                  pick out because it was packed at 2 PM whereas most other
                  restaurants along the beach were empty. Some of the best Greek
                  food we've had so far, from the baked sfela cheese to the
                  rabbit with prunes to the Taygetus mountain trout to the local
                  olives to the kebab and souvlaki. We've also discovered that
                  the Hellenes keep their good wine for themselves.
                 
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                  After lunch we completed our drive through olive groves to the
                  beach at Voidokilia. There is like a giant rock wall along the
                  coast. The Venetians built a castle above the Novorino dunes,
                  but tomorrow Dean Karnazes is having a triathalon there. We
                  climbed the rocks (pumice - ouch!) and swam in the incredibly
                  salty water of the Ionian Sea. Incredibly it seems saltier
                  than the Aegean. Cara & I didn't even need to tread water
                  to stay afloat. We didn't manage to climb to the castle, but
                  we did find a Mycenean tomb that was over 3000 years old.
                 
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