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                  Last year I travelled to Malta and visited the Ħal Saflieni
                  Hypogeum, which is an underground tomb and ceremonial cave
                  first used by men around 7000 years ago. I stood beneath red
                  ochre painted rooves that I could have reached out and touched
                  if I wanted to. I did want to, but I also know the havoc the
                  oils on human hands can wreak on such beautiful things. Ergo I
                  resisted that powerful temptation.
                 
                
                  Malta's history has been an interesting one, isolated and dry
                  in the middle of the Mediterranean between so many great
                  civilizations. Charles Dalli's
                  Malta: The Medieval Millennium
                  details the centuries during the late Byzantine empire, the
                  Muslim conquests and Christian conquests, through when the
                  Spanish crown handed the island over to the Knights Hospitaller
                  as they left their old base on Rhodes.
                 
                
                  The British were the last to conquer Malta and left their
                  mark of language, as they often do, behind when they left.
                  Sadly they'd didn't depart before establishing driving on the
                  left which unfortunately led me to enter traffic circles in the wrong
                  direction, to the peril of myself and other motorists.
                  Dalli's book is in the English language and has plenty of sources
                  therein to fall back on, although it also draws from Latin,
                  Arabic, Italian and, of course, Maltan originals.
                 
                
                  Malta's history is one of a back and forth between European
                  and African spheres of influence befitting its geographical
                  location between them. By the end of the 11th century with the
                  conquest of Roger the Norman of Sicily, Malta was basically
                  in the European sphere for good although raids did still
                  occur from Africa. Thereafter Malta's shared the fate of
                  Sicily as the Italian royal houses struggled for dominance.
                  Eventually the Aragonese came out on top though, which is why
                  the kings of Spain still have a right of residence there.
                 
                
                  Often the Medieval Period is misnamed the Dark Ages, no doubt because
                  the shifting borders and houses and alliances seem incredibly
                  comlicated to modern eyes used to the simple borders of the
                  few dozen European countries today. Dalli adequately demonstrates
                  in this work that the millennium between Byzantium and the
                  Knights is anything but dark in Malta, and indeed in Sicily as
                  well. While in Malta I also took a jaunt up to Catania where
                  I saw a Norman castle on the volcanic coast created by
                  erutions of Etna.
                 
                
                   
                
                
                  While there were no pictures allowed in the Ħal Saflieni
                  Hypogeum, I did take a number of
                  pictures
                  at other archeological sites and places of interest around the
                  island during my short stay.
                 
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