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22 September 2026 - Cajarc

In the little stone town of Faycelles there are cafés and restaurants, and one was open early enough that I could start with coffee. Posters advertised a trail run that perhaps I will come back for one day. But today my goal is to make it to Cajarc to work for the afternoon. Coming out of the church (I do like lighting candles) I ran into the mother/daughter pair again and we taked some more. The daughter really likes to talk! They were behind me, but somehow I lost them on the descent into the forest past town (I would later learn that the mother likes to take shortcuts and followed the road instead). Past the forest in the fields one starts to see little stone huts attached to the walls that line the old roads with are now the path. The next town is Gréalou, where there was an epicerie with a café. And they had the local beer on tap! I stopped for a break and also bought some granola bars. After that one travels even further back into history with 3000-4000 year old Celtic dolmens dotting the landscape and whose purpose can only be speculated about. Finally I came to a steep cliffside with views down to the Lot valley. The descent to Cajarc even passed a cave in the hillside. The I was back on the Lot river. Seems to be the same story for so many days now. And, of course, in the restaurant were the mother/daughter pair. I sat down and enjoyed a beer with them and we finally learned eachothers names (Sandrine/Marine). Also at the table was Nicholas, who I'd also seen in Golinhac and chooses not to speak English.

Then I had to work for the afternoon. Then I bought some supplies and a book by a local author and headed to the river. The path follows it for a time before crossing it and beginning yet another steep ascent. I know that I could just follow the river to Cahors, but I ascend all the same. High above the town in the forest I setup camp for the night in a relatively flat area of the hillside. I expected there would be more wild boar in the night as I was deep in the forest, but I heard none.

Tent in the woods