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24 September 2026 - Cahors

The stomach troubles were still not over and plagued me along with a growing cough last night. The full moon was also unbelievably bright at 4AM when I had to get up, but completely set an hour later and well before sunrise. Maybe we will get to the overlap before trip's end though...

I was on the road by 7AM, and soon Sandrine & Marine fell in beside me. We continued across the fields to just past Mas-de-Vers, where I had to stop for a break. It was there that Sandrine asked for a selfie together and told me that I was the most inspiring person she'd met on her journey. Something about stoicly reacting to whatever situation I'm presented with with a smile. Plat de jour? Delicious! Bring it on! No, I can't do laundry here tonight? Thank you. Plenty of moonlight left to walk under tonight! It was warmed my heart so much to know that the philosophy I aspire to live is evidenced by my actions at least. I've also had a policy for myself this trip not to ask for selfies until the other person does, so all the pictures here of me with other people they got a picture first. Before Sandrine asked I had planned to break this rule with her and her daughter because I have enjoyed their company so much. But the I didn't have to. I was also convinced that this was the last time I would see them.

Me, Sandrine & Marine - the mother/daughter pair!

Descending through the forest for another hour or so I reached the old and some fields that were being cultivated. Stopping for a break, Martin soon came up and introduced himself. He had seen me the night before at that gîte in Bach he said. And he was Swedish and retired. It was then that the Frenchman which, for some reason, everyone calls "The Machine" passed by. Of course, he loves it and the thought of a French Bert Kreischer makes me laugh, but I think it caught Martin off guard. As an aside, the Machine has become convinced of my camping philosophy and says he'll bring a tent next time. Probably William and Nicholas also contributed to this. Martin and I talked for a bit longer and then he was on his way.

A little further down the road was Emelies, where they had a nice shelter for pelerins with water and a dry toilet. I stopped for both and then continued on, encountering Martin who had stopped for his break by a closed roadside gelateria. He had other food though. We talked for some time more, and I learned he is the same age my mother, 70, but had kids at my age so his two are the same age as Maxwell and Zara. Apparently he also lived in Trondheim with a girlfriend for a while, so we switched to Norwegian. And then I bid him farewell and headed into the burned out forest that provided no protection from the midday sun. It was a slog to Flaujac-Poujols, but there I found picnic tables and a water faucet by a soccer field. Good place to eat my sandwich and replenish my water supply before moving on. For then it the path ascended again. But at La Quintarde was a gîte and bar open all afternoon. I got a beer and started to read, but Martin soon showed up to chat and then his friend from Australia, Kate, joined us. So we talked instead for an hour while my feet enjoyed some well-earned time outside my shoes. in the end we decided to meet for dinner and I gave Martin my number.

The road continued ascending after that into the high desert of scrub where the paths seemed to split and lead off in every which direction. I made several incorrect choices navigating that area, but eventually got on the road downhill to Cahors and the Lot river. Again. But this was the last time descending to the Lot. And what a beautiful descent it was. Cahors seems like a giant city after so many small towns. And there were signs advertising an Ekidan this weekend. Maybe will come back for that at some point... But first I went to check into my hotel, buying a bottle of wine along the way. In my wine notes I first recorded tasting a Cahors wine in 2009. I never would have imagined living in Nebraska that I would one day wander into this city on a hike across France. Life is just incredible! At the hotel I handed off my dirty laundry to the concierge, the first time I think I have ever availed myself of this luxury. Then I went to swim in the pool. The sauna was off when I got there, so I swam and then read for a half hour while it heated up. It is amazing how luxurious a tiny hotel pool and sauna can feel after weeks of camping.

Then it was off to dinner, which I almost missed (several messages from Martin while I was in the pool/sauna). Four people who didn't know eachother a week ago with entirely different lives/experiences at different ages all sharing and laughing together. This is definitely one of the many things about the Camino I love. And then we said goodnight and I didn't see any of them except Martin again. Back at my hotel I sat reading with a glass of wine on my balcony overlooking the 14th century Pont Valentré until my laundry was dry. I wanted to be able to pack tonight and I had worn my least dirty shirt and my running shorts to dinner. Sometimes you just want to sit in a day forever, and today is one of those days.